This model which was my first RC Kit which I then modified to suit and adapt from 2 channel to 4 channel was challenging but a good starter to model boats .
As stated elsewhere my Models generally have major refits in there service life , and she was no exception .
Once built in 2009 and sailed and rectified to suit my needs she had sound effects added as is Destroyer whistles , echo sounders , gun fire , etc then an 6amp amplifier so we could hear it from the far side of the lake , and then I made a steam generator adaption which channeled smoke up three funnels , then fitted Navigation lights and a multifunction speed mixer to the bigger engines .
She also had a voltage monitor to keep an eye on the remaining supplies of power left in the Lipo batteries aboard .
All a tight fit and shoe horn job , but got there in the end , and being a Destroyer/ Cruiser profile she cut through the water like a knife , just like her name sake
Fast Mine Layer HMS Manxman
- ivorthediver
- Posts: 3662
- Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:42 pm
- Location: Cambridge Shore Battery
Fast Mine Layer HMS Manxman
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"What Ever Floats your Boat"
- ivorthediver
- Posts: 3662
- Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:42 pm
- Location: Cambridge Shore Battery
Re: Fast Mine Layer HMS Manxman
Incidentally Jim I noticed recently after reading your magnificent efforts on the pennant numbers thread that she is intact showing the WRONG pennant number , so I will change her in the not to distant future [ to N70], cant have any deviation from correct now can we eh
"What Ever Floats your Boat"
- ivorthediver
- Posts: 3662
- Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:42 pm
- Location: Cambridge Shore Battery
Re: Fast Mine Layer HMS Manxman
Over a period of time most of my models go through refits and HMS Manzman was no exception .
On the WNSF I ran a section where by she was refurbished and repaired and re engined along with the installation of Lipo Batteries to reduce her weight and boost her capacity .
This took about six months as I recall but worked out well in the end .
The pictures show the new larger motors and the rats nest of wiring looms needed to fit beneath the aft superstructure along with the speed controller , and the parallel power supplies used in that configuration , followed by extensive repainting and repairs
The original motors were I believe 360 twins which were 12v and ran at 9220 revs flat out
The replacements were 540 twins which ran at 13360 revs flat out and again 12v supply .
All my speed controllers , switchers , sound modules ,amplifiers , speakers were all bought from Action , which is now owned by Component -Shop .
Every modeller I know has their individual preferences I know but you tend to stick to those who serve you well and look after you with both advice and service . and they were mine .
Again you use the internet to shop around and over the years build up a collection of tools and hand tools and indeed make a lot of your own to fit the task in hand where ready made ones don't exist . which is all part of the challenge I found .
The very nature of modelling is not only the present a model which represents the subject matter in hand but if you can produce a realistic model with correct Navigation lights fitted , and as much detail as you can which is in keeping with the subject in the time frame you chose then all the better . and there have been many like dear old" Sandy" who helped me a lot to gain my aim and offer advice when you met a brick wall and didn't know how to scale it.
Most modellers are retain bits and bobs which whilst not immediately of any use , in time serve to be exactly that you need .
When building HMS Manxman all sorts of junk found its way onto her , case in point :-
The penalty you pay for adding detail is the model becomes top heavy and unstable , and in this instance a lead ingot was fitted beneath the keel to give the correct waterline and ballast the model correctly . so it was drilled and bolted through in mid section and worked perfectly .so its just a case of rummaging around to find a" solution to float your boat"
On the WNSF I ran a section where by she was refurbished and repaired and re engined along with the installation of Lipo Batteries to reduce her weight and boost her capacity .
This took about six months as I recall but worked out well in the end .
The pictures show the new larger motors and the rats nest of wiring looms needed to fit beneath the aft superstructure along with the speed controller , and the parallel power supplies used in that configuration , followed by extensive repainting and repairs
The original motors were I believe 360 twins which were 12v and ran at 9220 revs flat out
The replacements were 540 twins which ran at 13360 revs flat out and again 12v supply .
All my speed controllers , switchers , sound modules ,amplifiers , speakers were all bought from Action , which is now owned by Component -Shop .
Every modeller I know has their individual preferences I know but you tend to stick to those who serve you well and look after you with both advice and service . and they were mine .
Again you use the internet to shop around and over the years build up a collection of tools and hand tools and indeed make a lot of your own to fit the task in hand where ready made ones don't exist . which is all part of the challenge I found .
The very nature of modelling is not only the present a model which represents the subject matter in hand but if you can produce a realistic model with correct Navigation lights fitted , and as much detail as you can which is in keeping with the subject in the time frame you chose then all the better . and there have been many like dear old" Sandy" who helped me a lot to gain my aim and offer advice when you met a brick wall and didn't know how to scale it.
Most modellers are retain bits and bobs which whilst not immediately of any use , in time serve to be exactly that you need .
When building HMS Manxman all sorts of junk found its way onto her , case in point :-
The penalty you pay for adding detail is the model becomes top heavy and unstable , and in this instance a lead ingot was fitted beneath the keel to give the correct waterline and ballast the model correctly . so it was drilled and bolted through in mid section and worked perfectly .so its just a case of rummaging around to find a" solution to float your boat"
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
"What Ever Floats your Boat"